Oximetry fails to predict acute mountain sickness or summit success during a rapid ascent to 5640 meters.

Abstract

OBJECTIVE:

The purpose of this study was to determine whether arterial oxygen saturation (Spo(2)) and heart rate (HR), as measured by a finger pulse oximeter on rapid arrival to 4260 m, could be predictive of acute mountain sickness (AMS) or summit success on a climb to 5640 m.

METHODS:

Climbers (35.0 ± 10.1 years; 51 men, 5 women) were transported from 2650 m to the Piedra Grande hut at 4260 m on Pico de Orizaba within 2 hours. After a median time of 10 hours at the hut, they climbed toward the summit (5640 m) and returned, with a median trip time of 14 hours. The Lake Louise Self-Assessment Scale (LLSS) for AMS, HR, and Spo(2) were collected on arrival at the hut and repeated immediately before and after the climbers' summit attempts.

RESULTS:

Average Spo(2) for all participants at 4260 m before their departure for the summit was 84.4% ± 3.7%. Thirty-seven of the 56 participants reached the summit, and 59% of all climbers met the criteria for AMS during the ascent. The Spo(2) was not significantly different between those who experienced AMS and those who did not (P = .82); neither was there a difference in Spo(2) between summiteers and nonsummiteers (P = .44). Climbers' HR just before the summit attempt was not related to AMS but was significantly lower for summiteers vs nonsummiteers (P = .04).

CONCLUSIONS:

The Spo(2) does not appear to be predictive of AMS or summit success during rapid ascents.

• Authors: Dale R Wagner, Jonathan R Knott, Jack P Fry
• Journal: Wilderness & environmental medicine (Wilderness Environ Med) Vol. 23 Issue 2 Pg. 114-21 (Jun 2012) ISSN: 1545-1534 [Electronic] United States
• PMID: 22656656 (Publication Type: Journal Article, Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't)
• Copyright: Copyright © 2012 Wilderness Medical Society. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Chemical References

• Oxygen

Topics

• Acclimatization (physiology)
• Adult
• Altitude Sickness (blood, epidemiology)
• Exercise Tolerance (physiology)
• Female
• Heart Rate (physiology)
• Humans
• Male
• Mountaineering
• Oximetry
• Oxygen (blood)
• Oxygen Consumption (physiology)