Short sequence
amino acids or
oligopeptides have recently garnered attention for use as treatments for a myriad of dermatologic disorders due to their ability to effect and modulate various biological processes in the epidermis and dermis, rendering them promising candidates as medical and
cosmeceutical therapeutics. Major advantages include their relative ease of synthesis and multitude of modifications that can be applied to enhance potency, affinity, specificity, hydrophilicity or hydrophobicity and cytotoxicity. Given the photoprotective effects of
eumelanin on skin, there has been substantial interest in developing agents, particularly α-
MSH analogs, that can induce 'sunless tanning' helping reduce risk of
melanoma and non-
melanoma skin cancer. In this mini review, we present some of the recent and leading
peptide modulators of melanogenesis with relevant clinical data and medical indications. Short sequence
oligopeptides with
tyrosinase inhibitory activity that can significantly reduce
hyperpigmentation, as well α-
MSH analogs that can enhance eumelanogenesis, are currently being clinically tested for treatment of
erythropoietic protoporphyria, polymorphous light eruption,
solar urticaria,
actinic keratosis, and "sunless tanning". Success in developing such products can help reduce the incidence of
skin cancer, one that surpasses that of all other human
cancers combined.